The Demtones may sound retro – but they’re not retired yet!

Photography, Photoshop

I’ve been raving about The Demtones ever since they first hired me to design a logo for them. We’re further down the road now and I wanted to show you a few photos I got during the videoshoot for “What you got to lose”. The video was shot and directed by MW visual media and parts of it, in a set dressed as a room where a grandma would feel at home.

The video for “What you got to lose” was shot at the old direstation, Gåsebäck.

I really dig the sound coming from these guys and it goes hand in hand with my passion for retro colorpalettes and designs. These images serve as social media content and pressimages.

Curious about the video? Check it out here!

Urban decay at Stralsund Hauptbahnhof.

Photography

On a recent trip to Germany I came across the abandoned part of the Stralsund train station. Getting in was quite a hassle, which resulted in a torn pair of pants, and I didn’t want to stay for too long since my visit took place in the afternoon. But nevertheless I managed to get some photos around the old “Lok-Schuppen” (workshops for repairs and storage of locomotives) before it was time to leave. Sadly almost every entrance to the buildings was welded shut. It seems the only way in nowadays is through one of the smashed windows on the rooftops but with my already torn pants, I thought it might be better to take it somewhat easy. I’ve seen some photos from the inside online, and it’s marvelous. Maybe someone else will luck out after me. Enjoy the photos.

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Prora and the old M3 disco.

Photography

Recently I made a trip to Rügen and revisited Hitlers failed KDF- (Kraft durch Freude – Strength through joy) project Prora. Last time I was there they had begun turning the massive buildings into luxury apartments. I reckon they have a year or two left until the transformation is complete. So this might be the last pictures I’m getting of the original structures. I was hoping to get some more photos from the inside but it’s really hard to get in nowadays.

Next to the complex lies what used to be the biggest disco on Rügen. The M3 Miami. After the owner Peter died a few years ago, the massive nightclub which had five floors  shut down for good. Here are some of the photos I got.

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12v DIY LED Filmlight – without soldering.

DIY-builds and hacks, Film, Photography

More than once I’ve been planning a shoot (both film and photography) and stumbled upon a big problem. No electricity. If you’re documenting your urban explorations, or shooting a scene at night in the woods, a flashlight isn’t always going to cut it. This has bugged me for quite some time and I’ve been wanting a battery-powered LED-panel for ages. But as you know, these come with a pretty juicy price tag. I’ve been checking out tutorials where people build their own panels using LED-strips which are cut up and soldered back together with wires. Soldering is a thing I have yet to master, so I started to think about alternative solutions. This is what I came up with.

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I built this lamp using 10 meters of (5050) RGB LED-strip which I got dirt cheap from eBay. RGB-strips come with a remote, which lets you mix your own colours so the possibility to get various coloured lights, from the same lamp, without filters really got me going. Soldering RGB’s would be even harder for me since there are more connectors (four instead of two) so I started to think about how to line up the strips without cutting them apart.

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I live nearby an IKEA, and I really like to walk around the shop to see if there are things which can be modified into filmgear. Cue the wonderful TROFAST box. This box is cheap, lightweight and comes with a lid in frosted plastic. Perfect if you want to soften your light. The edges are rounded so I figured I could just loop the strip (folding is a big no-no) around the inside walls of the box. But looping them on the sides probably weakens the output a bit since it’s not shining directly out of the box. I thought of it for a bit, and realized a reflective surface could give me an extra needed push. So I went to the hardware store (Hornbach is my home away from home).

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Here I found aluminiumtape (my new spiritanimal). I roughened up the walls of my box with P120 sandpaper to make sure the tape would really stick. I found a nice place at the top where I could put the beginning of my strip (a small box-reciever for the IR-controller with a DC input). The alutape was fun and easy to work with and the LED-strip stuck to it perfectly as i began looping it around the walls.

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I attached an adjustable flagpoleholder made out of metal to the box. These are easy to find online and most of them will fit onto a C-stand. On the back of the box I put some industrial strength velcro so that I can attach my Anker Astro Pro II powerbank (12v output) and fire the lamp up wherever I may end up shooting.

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As I mentioned before, the lid for the box is frosted plastic so it works like a diffuser. To make sure the lid doesn’t fall of when the light is angled, I drilled four holes in the box so that the hooks of the elastic SKÅDIS straps from IKEA would stay put.

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The lamp lit up beautifully when I tested it in a pitch black room, and I’m really happy with the way this build turned out. I can store all the cables and the remote inside the lamp, (since it’s a box), and there are no delicate parts on the outside of the lamp which could become damaged when transported.

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I hope you found this useful and that you’ll have your DIY-eyes with you the next time you set foot inside an IKEA. The place is packed with objects just waiting to be transformed. If you have any questions about this build, let me know.

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By the way! What is your best IKEA-based build when it comes to creating filmgear?

Make your portraits stand out.

Photography, Photoshop

Yesterday I tried a new approach to facial lighting while shooting portraits. I wanted to bring out the beast in my model so I decided to give scissorlighting a shot, and I think it turned out great. This is not a standard approach when it comes to setting up your lights but in this case I think it worked quite well. For this technique you’ll need two sources of hard light, I used my 800W redheads. The photo was shot with a Canon 700D using the 50mm f1.8 lens (wide open) and a .3 ND filter.

The idea is to shine the light on the sides of the face, slightly from the back of your model. The model is placed in the center where the two lights cross. Here’s a sketch:

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I shot my portraits in RAW so I had a lot of wiggle room in Photoshop. Which light setup is your favourite when lighting for portraits? Drop me a comment – I’d love to know.

Model Marcus Witold Piorkowski is a talented musician and filmmaker. You can check out his portfolio here and listen to his music on Spotify.

Mags on earth – PR photosession.

Photography, Photoshop

A while back I shot some photos for Magdalena Wolk who is currently in the process of rebranding herself. There are some really interesting tunes in the pipeline which will be released under the pseudonym Mags on earth. You can check out all my favourite shots in the portfoliosection found here.

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All photos taken in Helsingborg, Sweden at some of my favourite spots.

Sins in Vain – The portraits.

Photography, Photoshop

Last weekend I spent my the entire saturday shooting a video for the local metal band Sins in vain. They were recording a cover song and wanted the process to be documented so at the beginning of 2018 I’ll hopefully be done with the editing. I also snapped some photos of the band and here are some portraits I took towards the end of the day. It was a simple setup against a noticeboard with a quick Rembrandtlighting using a 800w redhead.

Filmmakers hardcase for less than $35.

DIY-builds and hacks, Film, Photography

Any filmmaker (or photographer) tends to accumulate lots of gear, or as my friend Murphy calls it; stuff. And as you know, most of the stuff is quite useful once you’ve dragged it all to set. My main focus these last years has been on getting my hands on all the wonderful tech-stuff you need (and want) and each time I’m heading out, I’m doing so with a bunch of suitcases, padded bags and backpacks. So I decided to step it up a notch and get some nice cases to keep my things safe, in one place, and to be honest; to make me look less like Kevin Costner on his rig in Waterworld (1995).

I did what everybody does and started looking at hardcases online. I decided that a few padded Pelican-cases would be nice. And then I came to my senses and realized that I’d rather save the $300 for more (you’ve guessed it!) stuff. So here’s what I came up with:

How to make your own fitted hardcase to keep your gear safe while looking fly.

1. Go shopping. I went to a second-hand store and found a really nice set of three aluminum cases in different sizes. I got really lucky here but you could just as well grab a hard-shelled suitcase (BONUS: the wheels and handle make transporting everything easier). The ones I looked at cost about $8. Make a run to the hardware store and grab a can of sprayglue, a sheet of styrofoam and a razorblade knife. Finally you’ll need a sleepingpad and some cloth.

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Set of three second hand aluminum cases ($15) – Sprayglue ($7) – Styrofoam ($2) – Sleeping pad ($6) – Razorblade knife ($1) & an old black T-shirt.

2.  Cut out a few pieces from the sleepingpad to fit your case. If you’re using a suitcase, you might want to start with some styrofoam in the bottom the gain some hight quicker (suitcases are usually quite deep but it all depends on what you’re planning to store in your case.) After this: trace around your objects with a marker.

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For my smaller gear (audio-stuff and ND-filters + fieldmonitor) I just used three layers from the sleepingpad, for my shoulder-rig I went with styrofoam. The nice things about working with layers is that you can customize the shapes to really fit your stuff. It takes some planning since you want your gear to lock in and stay put between lid and bottom.

3. Start cutting. You can use your first cutout as a stencil for the upcoming layers. Remember to customize each layer; you might need to make each shape smaller as you go, it all depends on your objects and if they’re flat or rounded.

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Don’t worry if your edges get a bit jagged and uneven. This will all be covered up with cloth later. 

4. Before adding glue, make sure everything fits the way you want it too. It might be a good idea to check how much space you got when your lid closes. Remember, you need to fill the top of your case to lock everything in. I made my bottom pretty deep so I didn’t really need the space in the lid. To save time and effort, I filled the lid with styrofoam.

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If you’re doing a lot of work with styrofoam and you need it to look clean – get a special knife for cutting styrofoam. I wrapped everything in cloth so I just went with the razor and ended up with fake snow all over the place.

5. Use the same shapes as before when cutting the top layer from the sleepingpad. Just think twice before putting it on with glue. Think vertical flip, mirror, the up-side-down and make sure it all aligns. The next to steps cover the shoulder-rig case so if you’re in a rush, skip steps 6 and 7.

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Sprayglue is very sticky so think twice before you put everything together. You don’t want to end up cutting new squares just because your brain wasn’t all there.

6. For big objects (which go deep), you might want to work with styrofoam entirely. I did this with my shoulder-rig and it saved me about ten layers of sleepingpad. It’s a bit more time-consuming to trace everything and you need to sculpt it a bit more, but just think of all that money you’re saving. And the fun you’re having creating something on your own.

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Here i wished I had that special electrical heated styro-knife, but if you’re careful a razorblade-knife does the job as well. More snow.

7. Keep cutting, adjusting, fitting, cutting. There’s a lot of in and out of the case when working like this, but the end result is satisfying enough, so keep going.

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8. Once you have all your pieces, made sure it all fits so that your gear is all snuggled up and locked in, sprayglue each layer together (build it up layer by layer in the case to make sure it all fits). After this, add another coat of glue and cover it with cloth. I used a T-shirt here but technically you could go out and get some furry material or go wild and cover it in, papier-mâché perhaps? I’m thinking of going wild with some vintage comics I’ve got, and if I decide to do so, I’ll post the result here later.

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End result. Three aluminum cases. One for the rig, one for the fieldmonitor and my ND-filters, and one for mics and the Zoom-recorder. All for under $35.

Was this helpful? Hit me up if you’ve got some questions or ideas for improvement. And thanks for checking in.

Grandma sticks it to the man.

Photography

One of the photos I took of my grandma during the #ArtstreetHbg festival earlier this summer ended up in print again. This time, in the cute little folder about Kulturveckan which kicks off in November. The theme will be “freedom”, and it’s kind of nice to have my grandma in there on page one since she grew up in what was eastern Germany  for some time. In a way, this photo makes me feel like she finally got to stick it to the man, in a weird roundabout way. Graffiti and street art is all about freedom and bending of rules and conventions, so I think this photo was a good choice for representing freedom. And I’m happy for myself to of course. It’s always nice to see your photos end up in print.

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Published in industry magazine.

Photography, Photoshop

During #artstreethbg the artists went through a lot of sponsored paint and Swedish industry magazine “Målmarmästaren” wrote a little piece about the festival. That’s all nice and neat, but for me the biggest thrill is that I got some of my photos published. Funny thing is that one photo is of my sister and the electrical box we painted together, and the other one is a photo of my grandma visiting the streetart workshop which was held on the last day of the festival. A nice little victory on a otherwise rainy Monday.

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Passagefestival – The photocollection.

Photography, Photoshop

Documenting this years Passage-festival (one week of “street-theathre” in Helsingborg & Helsingör) was a blast. I met so many amazing people on the job, both performers and spectators. Street-theatre really brings out the best in (most) people and there were so many golden moments to capture. I mainly filmed the events but there were times when a photograph just did the job better. These are some of my favourite moments.

 

Festivalphotography – The golden moments.

Photography, Photoshop

When I documented the ArtstreetHBG streetartfestival I mainly shot film. But sometimes I did actally turn the wheel on my Canon from video to photography and ended up with a few shots I really came to like. These are some of my favourites.